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THE
CRUSADER CASTLES
For those fascinated by Crusader legends
and lore, the castles of Karak
and Shobak are a must.
Both of them are along the scenic King's
Highway, the historic road stretching
from Amman to Aqaba.
KARAK
Approaching Karak, you pass first through
Wadi Mujib, a precipitous canyon l,000
metres deep, guaranteed to set the mood
for your visit. The fort itself is a dark
maze of stone-vaulted halls and endless
passageways. The best preserved are underground,
and to be reached through a massive door
(ask at the ticket office). The castle
in itself is more imposing than beautiful,
though it is all the more impressive as
an example of the Crusaders' architectural
military genius.
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Karak's
most famous occupant was Reynald de Chatillon,
whose reputation for treachery, betrayal
and brutality is unsurpassed. When Baldwin
II died, his son, a 13-year-old leper,
sued for peace with Saladin. The Leper
King, however, died without an heir, and
in stepped Reynald, who succeeded in winning
the hand of Stephanie, the wealthy widow
of Karak's assassinated regent. He promptly
broke the truce with Saladin, who returned
with a huge army, ready for war. Reynald
and King Guy of Jerusalem led the Crusader
forces and suffered a massive defeat.
Reynald was taken prisoner and beheaded
by Saladin himself, marking the beginning
of the decline in Crusader fortunes. The
castle was enlarged with a new west wing
added by the Ayyubids and Mamluks.
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SHOBAK
A lonely reminder of former Crusader glory
is Shobak Castle, less than an hour north
of Petra. Once called "Mont Real",
Shobak dates from the same turbulent period
as Karak. It is perched on the side of
a mountain, with a grand sweep of fruit
trees below. The castle's exterior is
impressive, with a forbidding gate and
encircling triple wall. Despite the precautions
of its builder, the fortress fell to Saladin
only 75 years after it was raised. Inscriptions
by his proud successors appear on the
castle wall.
WHAT
TO SEEThe
Crusader Castles: Karak
and Shobak.
Karak Archaeological Museum,
tel. (03) 2351216, hours 08:00-17:00,
is in the west wing of the castle. Admission
included in entry fee for castle.
Visitors' Centre, tel.
(03) 2354263.
Mazar Islamic Museum,
of near Karak tel. (03) 2370319. Collection
of items representing Islamic civilisation
and culture. Hours 08:00-17:00. Admission
free.
WHERE
TO EAT & STAY
Al-Mujeb, hotel &
restaurant near Karak, tel. (03) 2386195
Ba'albaki Rest House,
restaurant near Karak, tel. (03) 2394090
Kan Zaman, restaurant
in Karak, tel. (03) 2355103
Karak Rest House, hotel
& restaurant in Karak, tel. (03) 2351148
fax (03) 2353148
Petra Rest House, restaurant
near Karak, tel. (03) 2394052
Sultani Rest House, restaurant
near Karak, tel. (03) 2391013
White Valley Rest House,
restaurant near Karak, tel. (079) 5561024
HOW
TO GET THERE
By road: From Amman,
head south on the King's Highway. A good
map is advisable (obtainable from the
Ministry of Tourism,
3rd Circle, tel. (06) 4603360, hours 08:00-15:00,
Sun.-Thurs., or the Jordan Tourism
Board, tel. (06) 5678294, hours
08:00 -16:00, Sat.-Thurs.).
OTHER
DESTINATIONS
Between Karak and Shobak you can visit
the Dana Nature Reserve.
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